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PATAGONIA

The Bucket List

By Justin Tang

June 8^th, 2020

Feb 2019

I've been procrastinating.

So here's a revelation. A while back, my favourite German - Mischa mentioned that he'd previously used one of my posts as inspiration for a trip. I feel like that alone was enough to get me over a long time writing slump.

Photo editing takes time. Writing takes time. Time that could very often be better spent on binge watching anime (mainly Haikyuu), Love Island etc so I easily forget that reminiscing on travel highlights is a comparable escape. It's also super moving that long time friends that I barely get a chance to see or chat with can use this as a way to reconnect.

So to all my friends around the world, this one's for you. And also for Mischa because he originally sparked this trip before he bailed.

And hey, one post every 2 years isn't too bad. When is Doors of Stone coming out, Mr Rothfuss?

Prepare for a long one.

Planning

Since my mate Harry came here a while back, this has been in the top two places on my bucket list. Iceland was the other and I did that last September, I'll get around to posting that one the next time another friend drops a wholesome comment my way.

I'll keep it short but I spent a lot of time planning this 22 day trip. With about 130km (I reckon it was longer) over a week along with a handful of long day hikes in mind, I optimised almost every piece of gear on mine and Jasmine's backs for reduced weight savings. I could pretty much tell you the weight of every item that I carried from the toothbrush (Electric toothbrush head, 11g with Lush toothpaste tabs) to the food (Lots of Nut butter Clif bars). It wasn't cheap or quick, but I value the longevity of my knees. I could (more easily) write a whole post on gear.

The 'O' Circuit in Torres Del Paine National Park is not easy to logistically plan. Campsites each night need to be booked approximately 4-5 months in advance and the online process for this is painfully unstable. Extreme weather conditions also need to be considered for likely path closures. Thankfully, as always, I was blessed by the weather gods. They had cancelled the hike for many the week before but they seriously adore me and the feeling is mutual.

Day 0

Brisbane ➔ Puerto Natales

Kicking off with a long transit to Puerto Natales - I don't like wasting days so we got in late, bought water, snacks and prepared for an early start.

Torres del Paine

Day 1

Puerto Natales ➔ Hotel Las Torres ➔ Camp Seron

First bus into the Torres Del Paine National Park from the local town is IIRC 6am. Hostel owners put my nerves into overdrive when they told the tale of the previous weeks' torrential rain and hikers that had to cancel their trips. I had considered this risk but figured I could hope my way through a very tight and inflexible hiking schedule. You just gotta go all in sometimes.

Day 1 was a long day of walking. Add an extra few km circling around for gas across a few different locations. Our fresh legs were tested but not yet broken.

Day 2

CAmp Serron ➔ Camp Dickson

It was on this day that my feet started flaring (later diagnosed as severe plantar fasciitis) to the point my poles could barely hold me up. I picked the shoes based on the internet and that burned me. Arriving at Camp Dickson with the glacier in the distance was a big 'Oh shit' moment. Like seeing a massive glacier with the clouds sweeping through was insane.

Day 3

Camp Dickson ➔ CAMP PASO

An absolute physical and mental beat down. We were told if we didn't get to the next site (about 4 hours away) they wouldn't let us over the pass. Started the day at 4am with about 3-4 hours of freaky night hiking through the rainy woods.

It's about as scary as anyone would expect. You just focus on the path and use the rain and river to drown out every alien sound that hits your ears.

Going over John Gardner pass was probably the hardest part of the trip. Super steep, slippery, wind and cold with torrential rain going over the pass.

When I think back on this day only a few things come to mind. Firstly, the view of the ice field (too cold and wet to get the camera out so some iPhone pics below) coming over the pass was spectacular. Secondly, the regret of hiking without underwear to the point where I thought it was going to fall off.

Also our new German friends/Arc'teryx buddies, Andreas and Anne absolutely gunning down the pass after starting the day ~4 hours after us.

Day 4

Camp Paso ➔ Paine Grande

Decent day. If it wasn't clear at this point, hiking on severe plantar fasciitis is torture. I'll limit mentioning it from now on. I stayed up pretty late on this night cause there was minimal light, the night sky was unreal.

The scenery is pretty unreal.

Day 5

Paine Grande ➔ Valle del frances ➔ Camp Italiano

There's a cool round trip to get an awesome panorama view of the French Glacier. Pretty cool sitting in the middle and hearing the glaciers crack and pop.

Italiano was a free campsite so I avoided using the toilet for the night and camping downwind of it.

Day 6

Camp Italiano ➔ Refugio Chileno

Not so much on this day, just a lot of walking as usual. The refugio provided cheap pizzas and coffee. We slept early for an early sunrise hike.

Day 7

Refugio Chileno ➔ Las Torres ➔ Puerto Natales

We saved Las Torres until last and I don't know if it's a skill or luck but we got to watch a perfect sunrise (while most people usually see clouds). Even crazier, after the sunrise it got cloudy and then we got ANOTHER SUNRISE. In the freezing cold, I sat there for like 40 minutes taking the same picture over and over cause the colours kept changing.

I've learned that I enjoy things more when I've had to sacrifice limbs to attain them, there's something so selfishly gratifying about working towards a moment and having it pay off.

Finishing the O

After we left Las Torres all that was left was the home stretch down to the bus stop. Putting my feet in some cold water, washing my clothes and sleeping in a hotel room after this hike was insanely satisfying.

Anyway this post is so overdue, I've really forgot the specifics and don't have time to write about anything else but here's more pictures and condensed summaries of the rest of the trip.

PUERTO NATALES ➔ EL CALAFATE

EL Calafate

Nice town. Clean and vibrant. Jas and I loved Folk Hostel. The main reason for this stop is the Perito Moreno Glacier nearby.

It's massive, I'd say I'd seen enough big boy glaciers at this point (including Iceland, Norway etc) so it wasn't exactly life changing but hiking on it was cool.

They took us out on a boat, gave us some cheap af crampons and whiskey. Cool experience. Our new hiking friends recommended this and it was worth the price.

EL Calafate ➔ El Chalten

El Chalten

Hiking heaven. There's a boatload of trails and climbing around here.

FITZ ROY

Iconic and absolutely stunning. Good work conquering it, Tommy and Alex.

EL CHALTEN ➔ USHUAIA

Ushuaia

Little bit meh but I can say I've been to the southernmost city in the world (kind of, I googled it and the claims are a bit sketchy).

Punta Arenas

Just a pit stop.

SANTIAGO

Cool place to spend a few days. Do the free walking tour and big museums (I mean I always recommend these for any big city). Very culturally rich and the food is great. I dig pisco sours.

Physically, I came out of this trip shattered. And that just made it that much more delicious.

Now here's food.

2020

I've recently started a role working for a Japanese company and am hoping travel restrictions ease soon so I can fly over to Tokyo cause (even though I just got back from Japan) I'm itching for some adventures.